Clubs, Culture & Cocktails: A long weekend in Berlin
Before we start, every place you see mentioned below can be found on my Handpicked Berlin Map.
And now, without further ado...
FRIDAY NIGHT
Land on Friday night. Go to the Michelberger Hotel, right opposite Warschauer Strasse. Perfectly located for access to the entire city, and for a clubbing weekend (if that floats your boat).
Head down to Schlesisches Tor and find the original Burgermeister (there's another one further down near Kottbusser Tor). The place serves some tasty burgers, and is open till late. It used to be a toilet, but don't let that put you off. It's where all the cool (non-vegan) kids get their fuel before a big night.
For a drink or two, walk to Kantine Kohlmann. It may be smoky, but that's pretty much all of Berlin for you. Their cocktails are strong and reasonably priced.
(OPTIONAL) Clubbing. Check Resident Advisor, pick what suits your fancy. Some good nearby options: Panorama Bar (AKA Berghain, but on Fridays it's only Panorama Bar or Saule, not the whole thing, so you might want to save it for later). ://about blank. Prince Charles. You're in Berlin's clubbing heartland, so the world's your oyster. Just make sure you save some energy for tomorrow.
SATURDAY
Wake up, have a coffee and a hearty breakfast. You can stay at the hotel or head to Friedricschain for one of the best brunches I've ever had (I'm still craving the dish) at Silo. Get the Silo. It's awesome. You can also have a stroll in the nearby area and browse some of the local record stores.
Alternatively, walk down to Kreuzberg and get your breakfast there. Ora is fantastic, and Spindler is a wonderful option if the sun's out and you want to grab a seat outside.
Once you've had your breakfast, head to Voo Store for a browse at the work of local designers and the likes of Acne Studios, A.P.C. and more. Hard Wax is around the corner (next to Spindler!) so if vinyl's your thing, this place is an institution, especially for technoheads. It's a bit of a tricky find, so you need to go inside a courtyard, find the sign and go up the stairs. You're not breaking into someone's house, so don't worry.
Time for culture. Walk to Kottbusser Tor and get the U-Bahn to Sammlung Boros (assuming you have booked your slot in advance). It's worth noting here that public transport in Berlin is subsidised by the government, if you know what I mean. Sammlung Boros is a gallery in a bunker where you get given a guided tour in fluent English, and if you're lucky you will see some big names in there. Like most good things in Berlin, no photos are allowed.
By now, it's probably time for (late) lunch. If you have the appetite for it, and you didn't already have a burger the night before (not that I'm judging), go to Shiso for some burgers with an Asian twist. If you're still feeling like doing culture, walk to the KW Institute and admire some modern art (or just the building). From there, you can easily walk to Museum Island, or just head back to base for some chilling time.
Dinner options in Berlin are vast. For a more fancy destination, Bandol Sur Mer is a cosy fine dining experience - and there's your oxymoron right there. It's close to Shiso, so if you don't want to switch areas again, stay in Kreuzberg. For Italian, Salumeria Lamuri or Nudo are great options, Kimchi Princess is the hippest Korean I've been to, Cocolo has delicious ramen and Bar Raval (owned by Daniel Bruhl) is the perfect spot for tapas. From here onwards, the night is yours. Feel free to do bar crawling, club crawling, or both. If you're going to Berghain, the later you show up the better. Actually, just skip it on Saturday night and do it like the locals, on a Sunday afternoon.
SUNDAY
There's no rest for the wicked, and that surely is the case in this wonderfully restless city. Berghain is not the only place to visit on a Sunday, but for the techno fanatics, this is a pilgrimage that is repeated again and again. The music is going to be amazing, the place will be buzzing, and the party will feel endless. Have some hearty brunch and make your way over. The earlier you go the better, although the Berghain queue is like life itself: nothing is guaranteed. Once inside, make sure you visit the ice cream parlour, right above the bar on the Berghain floor.
If you decide this isn't for you, fear not. There are still many options. The rest of the city may seem more quiet. But this doesn't mean there is nothing for you to enjoy. If you're lucky, Kraftwerk will have a spectacular exhibition on (do your research here). If not, the Jewish Museum is another must-visit. On a nice day, just go for a walk through the Tiergarten and stop for a drink at Cafe am neuen See.
For the brave, Vabali Spa is an authentic German experience. Leave your clothes (yes, the swimwear too, this is Germany) at the door, and indulge in a day of relaxation, all the way till midnight. Look after your slippers and bathrobe though, they tend to disappear.
MONDAY
By this point you should feel exhausted, yet satisfied, and ready to go home. If you fancy a good coffee, Companion inside Voo should satisfy you. Otherwise, Concierge, Bonanza and Five Elephants should not be far, and should have what you're after. Squeeze in one last lunch at one of the places mentioned above, or simply eat at the hotel.
You can get public transport to the airport. A taxi will set you back around €40, but it's much faster.
TIPS
- Places close late (most bars just close whenever they want)
- Public transport is efficient and government-subsidised
- People may smoke inside
- Citymapper works a treat in Berlin and is worth using to get around
- Otherwise, get a bike from the Michelberger and explore
