Maps: Handpicked Marrakech

An attack on the senses in every (sorry) sense of the word. Marrakech is a city unlike any other you will have visited, and a city full of contrasts. It will feel hospitable and alien at the same time. It will shift from the unforgiving desert heat to the chilling night cold without warning. Take a random turn, and you will find yourself immediately transported from the mania of the souks to a tranquil courtyard, sipping mint tea. Marrakech taught me that it’s ok to change your mind, that the second time around may indeed be the most rewarding. Put on The Only Lovers Left Alive soundtrack (yes, it’s set in Tangiers, but it’s the feeling that matters), load up your camera with film and get ready to be thrown miles outside of your comfort zone. This isn’t your usual ‘like a local’ map. But it’s going to offer you some of the best things you can do in Marrakech, in a short period of time.

If you're on a smartphone and have Google Maps installed, click on the top right 'full screen' icon to open the map in the app.

There’s a handy list of tips at the end. You’ll need them.

1. Al Fassia – Restaurant
55 Boulevard Mohamed Zerktouni
https://www.alfassia.com/
Considered to be one of the best restaurants in town, Al Fassia is run by an all-female cast, serving you high-quality, traditional Moroccan dishes with pride and suave. Make sure you book ahead, apparently this is the only place where locals leave the house to eat tagine. And make sure you order the lamb. Serves alcohol.

2. Dar Yacout– Restaurant
79 Sidi Ahmed Soussi
http://www.daryacout.com/
Set menu with Moroccan fusion dishes. A highlight of the trip for many people, featuring welcome drinks, terrace views, indoor and outdoor dining and dessert to die for. The service, like in many places in Marrakech, will not disappoint, and your dinner will be accompanied by live music. Booking essential. Serves alcohol.

3. le jardin – Restaurant
32 Souk Jeld Sidi Abdelaziz
https://lejardinmarrakech.com/
You’re in the Souks, you’ve inhaled enough petrol fumes, your clothes smell of seventeen different kinds of spices, and you’ve been walking and bargaining for hours. Then you go to le jardin. A beautiful restaurant inside a courtyard which acts as the perfect pit stop for travellers seeking a moment of calm. The food is Moroccan, and tasty. Make sure you check out the boutique upstairs, and have your camera at the ready - every corner is instagrammable.

4. La Mamounia – Hotel
Avenue Bab Jdid
https://www.mamounia.com/en/
You miss Europe. You want luxury. You want to bump into celebrities and feel like one. Head to La Mamounia, one of the world’s great hotels. There is restrained extravagance everywhere. There are bouncers at the door, and in theory you need to dress up to get in, but as long as you don’t look too shabby you’ll be fine. The gardens are glorious, so make sure you go during the day for a walk and some tea. There are also various bars where you can have a drink or snack, Le Churchill and L’Italien being the most popular choices, but be prepared to pay. Having said that, no one checks if you’ve actually chosen to sit somewhere, so you can beat the system and just enjoy a walk around the grounds without having to lighten your wallet.

5. Jemaa el-Fna - Landmark
Place de Marché Animée Jemaa el-fna
Its name means ‘Assembly of the dead’, so no wonder this place feels like hell. Jemaa el-Fna is the city’s main square. Go for a quick look. Walk straight through. Don’t make eye contact with people holding snakes or monkeys. It feels like a bad paraphrase of Othello, but it’s true. There are people carrying snakes and monkeys. And goats, but in the fields nearby. And said people will put the snakes/monkeys on you and then ask for money. Just go straight to the souks. However, worth a visit at night just to take it all in. I kept it in the handpicked list because you have to see it. It definitely doesn’t mean you have to like it.

6. Le Jardin Secret - Sight
121 Rue Mouassine
https://www.lejardinsecretmarrakech.com/en/
Bang in the middle of the medina is a stylish Islamic garden that seems to capture and gently diffuse all the light of the African sun. You need to pay entrance, but that’s ok. Enjoy the pretty tiles, the prettier plants and the view from the terrace (where you can also sit for a drink or snack).

7. Bahia Palace - Sight
Avenue Imam El Ghazali
http://www.palais-bahia.com/en/
The palace of the brilliant. It’s highly touristy, but if you haven’t been here already make sure to put it on your itinerary. Especially if you like tiles.

8. Jardin Majorelle - Sight
Rue Yves St Laurent
http://www.jardinmajorelle.com/
Same as above, the Jardin Majorelle is a tourist hotspot, but one that shouldn’t be missed. The shade of blue you will see there is actually called ‘bleu Majorelle’, named after the French painter Jacques Majorelle who was the villa’s creator. The complex was also famously owned by Pierre Bergé and Yves Saint Laurent, and the latter’s ashes were scattered around the gardens following his death.

9. The Souks - Sight/Chaos
Medina
Inside the old city you will find Marrakech’s infamous souks - markets in which you can find anything your heart desires, from bee-infested sweets to luxurious rugs. Take cash, of course, and be prepared for the hustlers.

10. 33 Rue Majorelle - Shop
33 Rue Yves Saint Laurent
https://www.33ruemajorelle.com/
If you’re after a more European kind of shopping experience, then combine 33 Rue Majorelle with your visit to the Jardin Majorelle. It’s a concept store featuring Moroccan brands and products.

11. LRNCE Studio - Shop
https://lrnce.com/
Modern accessories and textiles, made by North African materials, inspired by Picasso, sold in Marrakech, by a Belgian.

12. Café Arabe - Bar/Restaurant
184 Rue Mouassine
https://www.cafearabe.com/
Didn’t try the food, but this place is just around the corner from Le Jardin Secret, serves alcohol and offers a rooftop terrace with splendid views of the medina. Book in advance, especially if you’re a big group.

13. Shtatto - Cafe/Restaurant
81 Derb Nkhal, Rahba Lakdima
Another place, another terrace. Also hosts exhibitions by local artists, and has a hairdresser.

14. Nomad - Cafe/Restaurant
1 Derb Aarjane
https://nomadmarrakech.com/
One of the city’s hippest places, Nomad is a terrace restaurant with a Scandi design and a Paris crowd. The food is Moroccan with a modern twist. The starters were better than the mains, and they don’t serve alcohol. It remains a safe choice for a break from your Souk browsing.

15. Comptoir Darna - Restaurant
Avenue Echouhada
https://www.comptoirmarrakech.com
Theatrical dining at one of Marrakech’s most popular (and self-proclaimed best) restaurants. It’s also a popular upscale option for local artists and businessmen, and turns into a nightclub on weekends.

The Extras - if the handpicked selection is not enough, here’s another handful. The places are all on the map:

• Grand Café de la Poste - elegant restaurant serving French cuisine

• Naranj restaurant - Lebanese, good for lunch

• Café Clock - Marrakech’s hipster coffee place

• Dar Cherifa - romantic restaurant, featuring literary art café and gallery

• Terrasse des Epices - one last terrace to serve you during your medina walks

• Restaurant La Famille - similar vibe to Le Jardin, but vegetarian food only

• El Fenn - Luxury Riad with pool and tasty restaurant

• Riad Goloboy - eye-catching Riad with bold colours and interesting modern art pieces
  

TIPS

• The airport is nice and new, but a pain. Depending on the amount of flights arriving or departing at the same time as you, you’ll need about an hour to get through security after landing. Make sure you carry a pen on you to fill in the arrivals card.

• The same goes for leaving, where you need to get your boarding pass stamped at check in, then queue for security (hold on to that pen, and make sure you fill in the passenger card in the queue). Then you’ll have passport control for some more stamp business, and then you’re good to go.

• Prices are plasmatic, especially when it comes to taxis and the Souks. Be brave and cheeky. If you think you’re being ripped off, then you likely are.

• Ask your Riad or hotel to book you taxis.

• Data roaming charges are some of the highest I’ve seen. Turn your roaming off before you land. Consider it an opportunity to live in the moment. Make sure you save your maps in offline mode, and go off exploring (but don’t stray too far).

• If you really need your data, they sell local sim cards at the airport. It may not be such a bad idea.

• Save your cash for the Souks, taxis and entrance to sights. You can use your card everywhere else.

• People absolutely hate it when you take photos of them. But maybe if you’re stealthy enough, you will get your million-dollar shot.