Maps Special: Handpicked Cyprus (My [Best Friend’s] Wedding)
I originally made this map for my best friend’s wedding, but it was so good I thought I’d use it for mine. Love you Pan.
Cyprus is a special place, and despite the view being slightly biased because we were born there, it has never failed to disappoint any visitors. It combines scorching sun, endless sandy beaches, scenic mountains, amazing food, centuries of history and a very active nightlife. And the best part is that it’s so compact, you can squeeze a lot of those even things into the same day. Although it may be famous for the ‘Sun, sex & suspicious parents’ style holidays focused around Ayia Napa, there is so much more to it. Explore the best of Cyprus, like the locals do.
If you're on a smartphone and have Google Maps installed, click on the top right 'full screen' icon to open the map in the app.
This map is a hybrid of a Complete and a Handpicked version. Consider this something inbetween: let’s call it a handful. Instead of elaborating on specific places, I’ve added a bunch of them to the map, and I’ve written a short description and introduction below to each city, picking out key highlights. The focus is mostly around Nicosia (the capital) and the Famagusta region, so Protaras and Agia Napa, which feature some of the island’s best beaches.
Nicosia
The only city in Cyprus without the sea. What it lacks in beaches, it makes up for in food and culture. Make sure you visit the old city, surrounded by Venetian walls. The main artery of the old city is Ledras street and the surrounding alleys. It features shops, restaurants and cafes, and is very popular with the locals, especially on weekends. Make sure you park outside and walk, as once you enter the narrow streets it may be a challenge to navigate. During the summer months, especially the peak week of August 15th, Nicosia becomes a ghost town, but during all other times of the year it’s definitely worth a visit.
Highlights:
Tocayo restaurant - A high-quality mix of world cuisine, and voted as one of the island’s best restaurants.
Beba restaurant - Delicious Greek food in a beautiful garden.
Skinny Fox restaurant - The first restaurant in town to bring the concept of modern small plates to the capital.
Lost & Found bar - One of the world’s top 50 bars, great cocktails and overall vibe.
A walk around the old city, ending on the Green Line (the UN Buffer Zone) and a coffee around Faneromeni Square with a view of the church.
Severis Foundation, if you’re curious about the history. Cyprus was occupied by the Venetians, the Ottomans and the British, and it only gained independence in 1960.
Protaras/Agia Napa
Protaras is like a natural extension of Nicosia during the summer months. A mere one hour drive takes you to some of the island’s best beaches, with white sand and turquoise waters. And there’s an abundance of them, too. You will find sunbeds and kiosks serving coffee and snacks at most of them, so just take your towel and sunscreen and show up. You’ll probably be staying in a hotel here too, so make the most of the local cuisine by visiting some of the recommended restaurants for dinner.
Highlights:
Konnos bay - Found beneath Grecian Park hotel, Konnos combines beautiful trees, great views and amazing waters.
Isola Beach Bar - Call ahead to book sunbeds. Located on Nissi Beach, one of the most beautiful beaches of the island, Isola is open for beach time, lunch, dinner and drinks.
Cliff bar - Part of Grecian Park, it’s a great place for enjoying a drink with stunning views after spending the day at Konnos. Alternatively you can head there at night for cocktails and shisha.
Mousikos tavern - Off the beaten path in the village of Sotira, what used to be known as a best kept secret has become so popular that during peak holiday season in August, you need to reserve a table weeks in advance. Do it, you won’t regret it. Make sure you get their homemade halloumi, that comes straight from the oven.
Kalamies - If you’re wondering where the fish places are, this is one to put on your list. Kalamies used to be a traditional fish tavern, but over the recent years it has transformed into an upscale fish restaurant with a romantic setting.
Vassos tavern - On the other hand, if your idea of eating fish is fluorescent lights, a few cats and sweaty men serving food, Vassos is the perfect place for you. It’s next to the Agia Napa harbour and it’s equally good for lunch or for dinner. Innovatively, they also serve sushi, and it’s pretty great too.
Limassol
Limassol has recently become little Russia - don’t be surprised if you see the Cyrillic alphabet across signs and publications around the city. Although the beaches here are not great, the fact that it’s a seaside city has given rise to countless beach bars and clubs, while the opening of the new marina saw numerous restaurants (some quite upmarket, especially for Cyprus standards) make their appearance. It’s worth spending a night here just to explore the local nightlife, especially the area around the Old Castle and Saripolou street, where the locals gather; but also to have an excuse to stay in one of its fancy hotels.
Highlights:
Puesta Oyster Bar and Grill - Great seafood selection and drinks, a firm favourite. Good for both lunch and dinner.
La Isla - Beach bar and restaurant. Good for brunch and drinks.
Four Seasons Hotel - One of the island’s most popular luxury hotels, that recently underwent a rehaul. Features multiple restaurants, worth visiting one of them.
Limassol Marina - The recently opened marina has allowed new restaurants to pop up faster than mushrooms. Go for a walk here at night and choose one of the restaurants from the map for some fine dining by the seaside.
Sousami bar - For alternative types, Sousami is an LGBT-friendly bar with a small and cosy patio, with DJs often spinning leftfield and electronic music. Great for casual drinks.
Mason bar - Bigger electronic music bar, often hosting international DJs.
Dusty Monkey - The latest entry to the electronic music bar scene.
Saripolou street - For bar hopping.
Kourion Amphitheatre - A very well preserved ancient amphitheatre, which is still being used for shows. It sits on a hilltop and provides breathtaking panoramic views of the sea below.
Larnaca
This is where you’ll land, and where you will probably feel the hot, dry whiff or the eastern Mediterranean air that immediately shouts ‘home’ to so many of us. Larnaca is a very compact city, and worth a short visit if you are spending longer than a weekend in Cyprus. The most thriving area is by far Mackenzie beach, with an array of beach bars and restaurants to fit every taste and budget. If you’re an aviation nerd, you can also enjoy some decent plane-spotting, as the beach is located right next to Larnaca Airport.
Highlights:
Almar, Rebuke and Ammos are all good options when at Mackenzie.
For a traditional seafood option, locals swear by Zephyros.
Taverna To Patrikon - A hidden gem, which puts a modern, gourmet twist on traditional Cyprus dishes.
Finikoudes beach - In a massively tongue-in-cheek way, Finikoudes strip is the Nice promenade of Cyprus. Head here for some afternoon strolling.
Pafos
Before the tunnel through the mountains opened, providing easier access to the most cut-off Cyprus city, people from the rest of the country (especially Nicosia) would joke that Pafos is an entirely different country. In some ways, it is. There is so much to do as a visitor in Pafos and the surrounding areas, combining sea, mountains and history, you can easily spend a week there.
Highlights:
Akamas peninsula - For nature lovers, hire a 4x4 and go driving and trekking around the island’s most beautiful and (almost) entirely pristine natural forest.
Blue Lagoon - A stunning, extremely famous and popular beach, more easily accessible by boat. This is one of my favourite things to do in Cyprus (and in general). Go to Latchi harbour and hire a boat for the day, load it with snacks and drinks, plug in your iPod and sail off. It’s best if you go in the afternoon, so you can drive back during the sunset and then combine with a fresh seafood dinner at one of the restaurants on the harbour. And if you don’t feel like a captain yet, don’t worry. There are also group boats so you just get to enjoy the ride (and the swim).
Oniro by the Sea - Head here for sunset cocktails next to a shipwreck, and make sure you have your camera at the ready!
Historical and tourist sights are abundant in Pafos, with the most popular ones being Petra tou Romiou (Aphrodite’s birthplace), Tombs of the Kings and the Mosaics, while you should try and squeeze in a visit to Adonis baths if you’re heading to the Blue Lagoon.
Anassa Hotel - One of the island’s most luxurious hotels. Worth a visit though surrounded by controversy because of its location (in Akamas, the almost pristine beautiful peninsula).
Ayioi Anargiroi Spa & Resort - Stay here after a visit to the Blue Lagoon, though be warned, it might be slightly hard to find at night. If you like pampering and agritourism, you will love it here.
The Mountains
Due to its very compact size, Cyprus is perfect for day trips. The Troodos mountains feature a vast selection of villages and sights, the latter mostly being in the form of old churches. They’re very easy to drive around and navigate, and depending on where you’re staying, you can choose to visit the picturesque village of Lefkara, known for its needlecraft art, or head further inland to explore some of the beautiful old churches and monasteries.
Highlights:
Casale Panayiotis in Kalopanayiotis village. A hotel and spa which has transformed the village, and which provides a good base for exploring the surrounding villages.
Prodromos village and Verengaria Hotel - For something different, go and explore the Verengaria ‘ghost’ Hotel, abandoned for decades.
The Mills Hotel & Restaurant in Kakopetria - For having some fresh trout straight from the river.
TIPS
Rent a car. Cyprus is modern, but public transport is lacking, to say the least. It’s very easy to drive around, especially if you’re visiting from the UK as we drive on the same side of the road. Google maps works just fine (in fact, I use it quite often as I can’t keep up with all the new places that keep opening).
Don’t drive drunk and don’t go over speed limits, especially on the motorway. The absolute maximum limit is 120kmh. The police is predatory, and they will be on your case.
There are parking areas that are quite easy to spot while driving around. Usually you will get approached for the fee by someone who is the ‘parking manager’ (I’ve taken the liberty to give them a job title). If the parking space is managed by the municipality, then there are proper machines where you pay for a specific amount of time and get a ticket.
Cyprus is in Europe. Which means we use Euros. In general people prefer cash, especially for small transactions at bars, cafes and restaurants.
It also means data roaming is free for EU citizens, so make the best of the map without worrying about extra charges.
Tipping is not mandatory, so just round the bill up.
When you’re eating meze, don’t feel under pressure to finish your food. It’s humanly impossible, unless you’re a participant of Man vs Food.
Reservations are mostly done over the phone, but everyone speaks English. You’ll be fine.
If you can, try and go to a bakery, called ‘fournos’ in Greek. You will get amazing bread and also my favourite, almyra (literally meaning ‘salty ones’). They are savoury pies filled with a range of ingredients, including cheese, olive paste and sausage.
Wear sunscreen.