Complete Maps: New York

There isn't much left to be said, written, painted, photographed or documented about New York. Sure, a lot of it is as capitalistic as it gets, but there's absolutely no denying that this is a very special place. Around every corner there's a piece of art history, pop culture reference or foodie paradise, waiting to be discovered and savoured. And what's most exciting is that the city is very much alive and re-inventing itself, restlessly and constantly, ensuring the adjective in its name remains the force behind what drives it.

If you're on a smartphone and have Google Maps installed, click on the top right 'full screen' icon to open the map in the app. You can also use it on this page.

The  map contains too many food options, and definitely more than you can try. 

As a general rule of thumb, if it looks touristy, then it probably is, and if you're away from the centre, you're more likely to find something more authentic. West Village houses some of the most interesting and attractive restaurant destinations. It's also a great neighbourhood, it has a bohemian (although somewhat posh) vibe to it, and it's very conveniently placed for access to sights, food and drink highlights, and Brooklyn. The Standard is, of course, the most popular accommodation option, but also check out The Jane - a hostel with a hipster vibe, but you also have the option to get your own bathroom, so no mandatory germ-sharing will be involved.

Copious amounts of food will be consumed, especially burgers. If you're on a diet, put it on hold. Walk to feel less guilty (New York should be walked anyway, at least most of Manhattan), and eat along the way. Somehow, I always found myself eating, even things I rarely crave like cupcakes and pan-fried pizza slices. 

Some food highlights were the burgers at Polo Bar and The Spotted Pig. Two very different environments, but both worth visiting. If you feel like feeling like old money, book Polo Bar in advance, enjoy a long drink at the bar and head to the restaurant. The Spotted Pig is a late night 'pub' (conveniently placed to combine with Sleep No More - see below). We walked in after 11pm and, having been conditioned by London to be forbidden from doing things we want (like eat) during 'antisocial hours', we expected to be turned away. Instead, when I asked the host if they still served food, he simply replied "Till 2am every night ma'am" and showed us to our table. 

Drawing comparisons between London and New York was unavoidable. They are both the metropolises of their respective countries, if not continents. What struck me was how NYC is still very much driven by money, but this hasn't killed every other sector around it. Art, fashion, music, are all still thriving in New York. American museums are full of American art, a lot of it inspired and created in NYC. Tiny jazz clubs are regularly visited by keen, young talents, who bring their instruments along, pay for their entry and patiently wait for their invitation to join a jamming session on stage. 

Another way in which New York is different and - dare I say - better, manifested itself to us while we were on a quest for ribs on a Sunday afternoon. Wandering around Greenwich Village, I realised I'd made the rookie error of not having researched any decent BBQ places. As we were looking at a few options on our phone screens, a lady walking her dog walked past and asked if we were lost. We explained our predicament, and she said "Go to Mighty Quinn's. I've lived here for 20 years and they're still the best ribs in the neighbourhood." We took her advice, and the Brontosaurus Rib we ate half an hour later ensured we were extremely happy to have done so.

Outside Manhattan, Brooklyn is home to Peter Luger Steak House. Book way, way in advance. This is the most popular steak in NYC. It's also cash only. Speaking of cash, if you're around Williamsburg over the weekend and you're a fan of food markets, Smorgasburg is a massive open air one. On a nice day, you can grab some food and eat it on the river bank, with a view of the Manhattan skyscrapers. 

Culture highlights are too many to list here, but definitely go to the Whitney and the MoMA, and book tickets to see Punchdrunk's Sleep No More. It's immersive theatre at its best, with a modern version of Macbeth taking place in a hotel building under a film noir guise, complete with interpretive dance, nudity and elements of gore. It's not for the faint-hearted (I wouldn't take my parents), but if the above description has triggered your curiosity and excitement, book tickets. You won't regret it. The Impressionist selection at The Met was also outstanding, so if you haven't got time for the entire museum, at least make time for some Monet. Entrance is free in theory - but any kind of donation will be more than welcome. Combine with a walk around Central Park, and go to the Loeb Boathouse for lunch. I know these guides are meant for the anti-tourists, but some things have just been featured way, way too much in pop culture to be excluded.

Joan Didion, in her essay Goodbye To All That, has crafted the most eloquent of break up letters to New York City. In it, she describes it as a place "for only the very rich and the very poor. It is less often said that New York is also, at least for those of us who came there from somewhere else, a city for only the very young.” She loses her love for the city as she begins to distance herself from her youthful dreams. Perhaps New York is not so different to London after all, for those who live in it. But for those who visit it, it will still have the ability to charm you and seduce you, whether it's through an inspirational art-show, a mind-blowing meal, or a random conversation with a stranger on the street. 

Quick Tips:

• Tip no.1: Tip! You don't want to be that one person who doesn't tip in New York. Most of the time it's included in bills, and it starts from 20%. Just make sure you check.
• You can pay taxis by card using the screen at the back, and the tip is helpfully calculated for you. Revolut is a pretty great way to go cashless abroad.
• However, you will still need cash for the Subway. Make sure you save that loose change; it will come in handy. Hailing an iconic yellow taxi is great, but sometimes the subway is the best way to travel.
• If you can, avoid buying any 'necessities' (AKA water) near Times Square. It's a rip off.
• Walk the city as much as you can. It's worth splitting up in sections and planning things that are in the same area, on the same day. Use the map for inspiration.
• Some things, like Joe's Pizza and Magnolia Bakery, I found slightly overrated. They're still on the map if you'd like to try them, as they've almost become New York landmarks of their own.