Complete Maps: Milan

Milan is perhaps Italy's most overlooked, over-criticised city. It lacks the romance of Venice, the light of Florence, the beauty of Rome. But what it lacks in classical aesthetics, it makes up for through its cosmopolitanism. Welcome to Italy's most fashionable city. 

My first encounter with Milan came not in person, but through Luca Guadagnino's 'Io Sono L'Amore' ('I Am Love'). In the film, Tilda Swinton's character has left Russia to live with her wealthy husband and family in Milan (in the building that actually is Villa Necchi Campiglio). Eventually, she caves in to the natural passions that seize her when she leaves the city, and envelops herself in the Tuscan nature. Perhaps this is a nod to the fact that Milan is not for everyone, and although it does have its green, it's a lot more famous for its industrial surroundings.  

After all, this is what gave it (and the North) its characterisation as Italy's leading financial area. But saying this city is not beautiful is unfair, and incorrect. A glance around the Piazza del Duomo, a walk past the Teatro alla Scala and a stroll around the cobblestoned streets of Brera will remind you that you definitely still are in one of Europe's most astonishing countries. Perhaps this is what I liked about Milan the most. It's a city housed in history, but with a forward-facing attitude. It's like you've taken a castle and filled it with Kartell furniture. After all, this is also the capital of design and fashion, and with places like Fondazione Prada, Milan's answer to the Tate Modern and Palais de Tokyo, it makes sure it's at the forefront of modern art, too.

I'm not going to lie: I'm not an insider to Milan. I think with cities like this, Milan, London, Paris, everyone shapes their own experience and impression of them. As Kant said, we can never know 'the-thing-in-itself', but only the phenomenal world, that is, the way it appears (and appeals) to our senses. And, through its sensual appeal, Milan certainly does not fail to deliver. You will have gelato (not ice cream). You will eat pasta. You will eat pizza. You will drink coffee. You will have aperitivo. Milan may not be the most Italian-looking of cities, especially if your impression has been framed by films, Instagram and visits to some of the aforementioned eternally romantic destinations with a backdrop of canals, rivers, beautiful piazzas and iconic architectural masterpieces. However, despite its tough exterior, its heartbeat still contains the gentle Italian nature that has charmed generations of travellers.

Like Tilda's character, I still feel like a foreigner every time I go to Milan; but a welcome one at that. And that's perhaps a gift to cherish. Being the eternal visitor to a city like this. For when you stop being a visitor, maybe that's when the magic disappears.

TIPS:

• If you feel the above's too much, I've made a handpicked map of Milan which you can find here.
• If you go to Fondazione Prada, make sure to check out Bar Luce - a café designed by Wes Anderson.
• Monday tends to be a 'resting' day for a lot of businesses (including museums), so if you're reading this on a Monday, and were planning on doing some exploration, check some opening times first. 
• Alternatively, this may be a good opportunity to just leave the city and go to Como or Garda for the day.
• Seeing the Cenacolo (AKA The Last Supper) at Santa Maria delle Grazie is impossible without a ticket. You will have to book this weeks in advance. 
• Tipping is not really a thing in Italy, but do round up the bill as an act of politeness and gratitude.
• Navigli is a great area for aperitivo.
• Aperitivo involves food, sometimes a buffet. It may seem too good to be true, but if you ever wonder why Italians are not fat, maybe it's because they know how to practice self-control.
• Make sure you explore Isola if you want to see where the cool kids hang out.
• Coffee in Milan is done like everywhere else in Italy - standing up at the bar. Cappuccino is a morning beverage, the rest of the day is dedicated to shots. If you fancy a sit down, bars also serve coffees, and if you go to a pasticceria you can grab a seat and treat yourself to a sweet, too.