Complete Maps: Lisbon
Lisbon is a city that began reinventing itself before cities reinventing themselves was a thing. It's not every day a place gets hit by an earthquake, fire and tsunami, all within a few hours of each other. But Lisbon has established itself, throughout history, as a symbol of survival and relentlessness in times of unpredictability and adversity.
If you're on a smartphone and have Google Maps installed, click on the top right 'full screen' icon to open the map in the app. You can also use it on this page.
There is something almost Sisyphean in the city's geography, with its countless hills and its iconic yellow trams and funiculars endlessly making their way up and down its gentle slopes. According to myth, Sisyphus was the ruthless, hubristic King of Ephyra, who was punished by the gods to forever push a massive boulder up a hill, only to watch it roll back down every time. The Myth of Sisyphus, of course, alludes to meaning in meaninglessness; an impervious dedication to simply carrying on with the tasks we have been given in this life, despite the hardships. An absurd notion, but then (ironically) there must be a reason why Lisbon itself was home to one of literature's most prolific existential writers, Fernando Pessoa.
Pessoa's most famous work is 'The Book of Disquiet', a highly self-aware meditation on identity, purpose and the frustrations of being. Written by 'Bernando Soares', a heteronym Pessoa gave to himself, 'The Book of Disquiet' is a glimpse into the mind of a seemingly ordinary man, doing an ordinary office job in a Lisbon fabrics firm. His writings were largely discovered in a trunk, after his death, and Bernando Soares became Fernando Pessoa, and Fernando Pessoa, like Lisbon itself, was reborn.
Photo by Khachik Simonian on Unsplash
The latest version of the city has seen a meteoric rise in popularity by all types of visitors, and even the kind that goes and ends up staying. Lisbon has become a startup hub, an artists' hub, a new home for a generation of Europeans who are ceaselessly crafting their identity, constantly on the move and on the search for a place to host their multiple ambitions, anxieties and aspirations. Pessoa's writings, similarly, will resonate with anyone who feels like they are everything and nothing, all at once. Lines like "I am nothing. I'll never be anything. I couldn't want to be something. Apart from that, I have in me all the dreams in the world" and "Life is whatever we make it. The traveller is the journey. What we see is not what we see but who we are" capture the tension between a life full of existential dread and of existential potential. Through exploring new cultures and places as travellers, we are ultimately discovering new aspects of ourselves, and feeding a restlessness that never shows the willingness to satiate itself.
Pessoa's words strike too close to home. When travelling, through our attempts in self-discovery, it is almost imperative that one actively seeks something new, although deep down we will always be looking for something agreeable, even subconsciously familiar. Perhaps this is why culture and food are so inevitably interlinked and why we let our taste, literally, and as a broader concept, define us as people.
And this is why food when travelling is important. Culture and cuisine go hand in hand, and the way people eat - locals and visitors alike - can reveal a lot about their identity and ethos.
Lisbon has a beautiful foodie scene, which I first became acquainted with when a friend pointed me towards Anthony Bourdain's 'No Reservations' episode that was filmed there (I don't even know if I should be linking to this, apologies if it's illegal). It seemed I was late to the party; but this is the kind of party that goes on for ages without losing any of its energy or appeal. The kind of party where you have people lazing on the grass, mildly intoxicated, fresh faces who just walked in and are establishing their bearings, and the old couple who just happened to live around the corner and came to show the kids how to do it. Everybody's welcome, and everyone will have a good time.
Although there is a number of standout places one should visit in Lisbon, especially when it comes to food, I'd like to look at it in a different way. Don't make a list of places you should eat in. Simply, take out your note pad, or your Notes app, and make a list of things you should eat or experience. Starting with bacalhau (or cod, to the common people). Apparently there are over 1,000 recipes for it in the country. Any of the seafood restaurants will serve it, and will serve it well. Seafood is generally excellent in Lisbon, even in its tinned version. The sandwiches, especially the prego and the bifana, will become your new favourite guilty pleasures. And, of course, Pastel de Nata. Finish every meal with a Ginja, their delicious cherry liqueur, or just have it out on the streets on a sunny afternoon. Lisbon is a foodie's paradise, so let yourself explore it and maybe, once every now and then, glance at the map to see what's around you.
The internet has been filled with Anthony Bourdain quotes. One of my favourites was this, a lesson I still try to learn myself every time I go somewhere, “I learned a long time ago that trying to micromanage the perfect vacation is always a disaster. That leads to terrible times.” These words also serve as a reminder why it's important to have not necessarily plans, but just a handful of good options. We travel for experiences. It is our experiences that ultimately shape us, and every person's experience will be a blend of intent and accident. At the end of the day, the hills will still be there after us.
Photo by Liam McKay on Unsplash
TIPS
For the ladies: wear flats - Lisbon was not made for heels.
If walking is not your thing, trams are a great way of getting around - follow this link for a guide to the different tram routes.
To see what's on, check https://www.viralagenda.com/pt/lisboa or https://www.agendalx.pt
Similarly, for clubs, check out Resident Advisor.
You'll see a few photo icons on the map, which indicate the miradouros - these are literally viewpoints. As they say (or not say) at the top of every hill, there's a great view waiting to be taken in.
If you fancy a trip to the sea, Cascais is a short train ride away (departing from Cais do Sodre train station).
